How to Make It
In a large saucepan, cook the bacon over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until rendered but not crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, carrot, celery, chiles and a generous pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened and just starting to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the ham, leek and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Stir in the wine and simmer until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the stock and bay leaves to the saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, then simmer over moderately low heat until the vegetables and ham are very tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature; discard the bay leaves.
Add the spinach and mustard greens to the saucepan and stir well until wilted slightly. In batches, puree the mixture in a blender until a chunky puree forms. Return all of the gumbo to the saucepan and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the greens are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the beans and season with salt and pepper. Ladle the gumbo into bowls and serve with steamed rice and chile vinegar.
Chile vinegar (also called hot pepper vinegar or pepper sauce) is a staple on Southern tables. Look for it at markets and on .com.