A sneak peek at one of San Francisco’s most highly anticipated restaurant openings this fall, Eight Tables by George Chen.

By Elyse Inamine
September 08, 2017
Travis Wong

George Chen could have been a scientist, a lawyer, a globe-trotting businessman. Instead, at the tender age of 15, he set his sights on the restaurant industry.

“People were like, ‘This guy is trouble, but he’s a really good waiter,’” says Chen. “I was chased out of a restaurant once by a chef. He loved to gamble, and the night before, he lost, and the next day the food wasn’t right. I told him, ‘I’m not serving this. This is terrible.’ He came after me with a cleaver.”

This is George Chen. He laughs loudly and mischievously as he recounts his high school years waiting tables at L.A.’s most prominent Chinese restaurants. (The L.A. Times profiled him back in the late 70’s, detailing his talent for describing Chinese food to customers.) He’s opened around 15 restaurants in San Francisco’s Bay Area, including the James Beard Award-nominated Betelnut, and a handful in Shanghai in recent years. Now in San Francisco’s Chinatown, he’s back to stirring up trouble.

“Let’s go, guys. Let’s go,” says Chen, as he rounds up his tweezer-wielding troops waiting in his pristine kitchen.

Travis Wong

Just a floor above bustling marketplace and restaurant China Live, Chen’s Chinese version of the massive Eataly markets, he’s preparing to open his most ambitious project to date next month: Eight Tables by George Chen, his 10-course tasting menu ode to shi fan tsai, or private chateau cuisine of the Chinese elite past and present.

“In the old days, back in the Qing dynasty, they had lots of merchants and government officials who all had private chefs, and they would invite people into their homes for these grand meals. In the last 10 years or so, it’s become quite popular again in China,” says Chen. “So when you talk to people in the know there, and you tell them you had shi fan tsai, they know you had a very high-end, coursed-out meal.”

Chef de cuisine Robin Lin, who came from Taiwan to get Eight Tables off the ground under Chen’s careful watch, slides next to Chen, quietly plating the first course. It’s a stunning collection of nine small bites designed to highlight the nine essential flavors of the Chinese canon. There’s beef tendon simmered with green and red Sichuan peppercorns for ma, or numbing/tingly, a swirl of yuba, spinach and white miso to represent xiang, or fragrant, and so on. This is the first real dinner the team is serving, and everyone wanders over to watch Lin and Chen assemble what would be a showstopper at most restaurants. However, Eight Tables isn’t most restaurants.

Travis Wong

“Looking at the World’s 50 Best list and the Michelin guides, there are very few Chinese restaurants. The image of Chinese food in America has been bastardized; people think it’s low end and low labor,” says Chen. “But not everything in a Chinese restaurant comes out of a wok. Chinese food is much more complex than that, and shi fan tsai is the highest form of Chinese cuisine.”

Travis Wong

Once you make your way through a nondescript alley around the corner from China Live, up the elevator and into the foyer of Eight Tables, you’re greeted by Chen’s father, a diplomat, and his grandfather, a general under the Kuomintang—the National People's Party—(“It’s a little embarrassing to have your face in the foyer,” says Chen.) But these family portraits are what makes a living room, which is the effect lauded design firm AvroKO was going for. Sign in at the guest book by the door, take a cocktail from the home bar-like set-up manned by beverage director Anthony Keels and enter the wood-paneled, gold-hued room to sit at one of the eight coveted tables.