How to Make It
In a large bowl, whisk the flour with the sugar, salt, baking powder and baking soda. Using a wooden spoon, stir in the yogurt, water and oil until the dough starts to come together. Using your hands, knead the dough in the bowl until smooth. Wrap the dough in plastic and let rest at room temperature for 2 hours.
In a medium bowl, mix the shallots with the scallions, serrano, ginger, sesame seeds, fennel, cumin and oregano.
Unwrap the dough and roll it into an 8-inch log, then cut the log into 8 pieces. Preheat a large cast-iron skillet or griddle. Work with one piece of dough at a time: Roll out a piece of dough to an 8-inch round. Spoon a heaping tablespoon of the shallot mixture in the center of the round. Fold the edges of the dough into the center, covering the filling. Using your palm, gently press to flatten. Carefully roll out the filled dough to a 7-inch round.
Brush the kulcha with ghee and add to the hot skillet. Cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until puffed and charred in s, about 4 minutes total. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough and shallot mixture. Serve warm.