Fiercely independent voices are driving the conversation in HiFi.

By Andy Wang
Updated: May 20, 2019
David Landsel

It was 7 p.m. on Mother’s Day, and everything was going to hell. Woon owner Keegan Fong had sent his mom, chef Julie Chen Fong, home to enjoy the holiday. And then Woon, a wonderful new Chinese restaurant in L.A.’s Historic Filipinotown, got slammed with customers.

“There was a line out the door,” Keegan says. “Everything just went wrong at once. The rice went mushy, the noodles went mushy, the pork belly fell apart, and there were tickets, like, stacked. I was just like, I don’t know what the fuck to do. I’ve never been in this situation before. I’ve never been in the restaurant business.”

But Keegan is a smart and sincere operator. He walked over to every table and told customers how sorry he was. He admitted that he was inexperienced. He offered to get guests beers. The diners at Woon told Keegan that they appreciated his honesty and his effort. They said that they were happy to have Woon in the neighborhood and that they would keep supporting the restaurant.

Later that night, Keegan put up an Instagram post thanking customers for being so gracious during Sunday’s dinner service. Earlier that day, he had posted about Mother’s Day and revealed that his mom, affectionately known as Mama Fong, had been diagnosed with breast cancer a few weeks after he signed the lease for Woon. Keegan wrote about how she underwent treatment and still found time to train the Woon staff and take care of her grandchildren. Mama Fong, who is now cancer-free, had no idea that her son was going to post this.

I visited Historic Filipinotown, also known as HiFi, last week because I wanted to tell a story about L.A.’s next great dining neighborhood. I wanted to tell you about the beef noodles, perfectly chewy and beautifully charred, that the born-in-Shanghai, raised-in-Hong Kong Mama Fong has served her family for three decades. I wanted to tell you how Woon, which is Mama Fong’s first foray in the restaurant business, started as a pop-up and has turned into one of L.A.’s most exciting new restaurants. I wanted to tell you about great dishes like Woon’s sausage-laden fried rice and fried tofu fishcakes.

Stan Weightman Jr.

But now I want to tell you something else, too. The challenges of opening an independent restaurant, in an era of rising costs, a tight labor market, and competition from deep-pocketed out-of-town hospitality groups, are harder than ever in L.A. And maybe the most refreshing thing about HiFi is that it’s full of operators like Keegan who are ready to share the unvarnished truth about their struggles. 

Let’s do a roll call of some good eating-and-drinking establishments in HiFi. These aren’t the only places you should visit here, but they’re the Asian-American-owned businesses that recently created a map of the area, a 2.1-square-mile neighborhood near downtown, Silver Lake, Echo Park, and Koreatown. On that map are Woon, Valerie Confections, Tactile Coffee, Genever, Porridges + Puffs, Doubting Thomas, HiFi Kitchen, Boba Guys, and The Park’s Finest. On the back of the map is a punch card. Get a stamp at each place and you can score an invite to a pot-luck dinner, likely in June, with food or beverages from each business.

Last Monday, many of the owners got together for a photo shoot and talked about working together to promote their neighborhood during May, which is Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month.

Michelle Youssefzadeh Davey

“Not all of us knew each other,” says Roselma Samala, one of the three Filipina founders of cocktail bar Genever. “But there’s this energy and shared history here.”

“I like how all the businesses in this neighborhood are deeply personal,” says Mike Yi of Tactile Coffee. “Valerie Confections can only be made by Valerie. Porridges + Puffs can only be made by Minh. There’s only one Keegan’s mom.”

Before veteran chef Minh Phan opened Porridges + Puffs (which serves beautiful bowls of Koda Farms Kokuho Rose organic heirloom rice adorned with pickles and edible flowers) last year, she met with Samala, Valerie Confections’ Valerie Gordon, and Tactile’s Mike and Eric Yi. They discussed the potential of the neighborhood and how they could happily co-exist.

“I found my tribe,” Phan says. “I really wanted it to be an Asian-American enclave. Not just Asian. It has to be Angelenos of a certain generation. We just all understand each other.”

A lot of the businesses here took a non-traditional route toward opening their brick-and-mortar location in HiFi: Tactile served espresso out of a Mac Tools truck. Porridges + Puffs began as a pop-up inside Phan’s Field Trip restaurant in Hollywood. Genever was partially funded on Kickstarter. Woon was created out of the love Keegan had for his mom’s noodles, and his pop-up adventures began with an event at his uncle’s antique-furniture store, JF Chen, and then moved to an alleyway in Koreatown. Keegan worked in apparel marketing and Mama Fong worked as an interpreter before they turned Woon into a restaurant.

“I wanted to own my business for the longest time,” says Keegan, who’s been putting in 16-hour days at Woon. “I figured, why not try the hardest thing there is?”

Keegan laughs. My bowl of beef noodles arrive, and he suggests that I eat it “Mama’s way” and pour on some white vinegar and chili garlic sauce. The noodles are delicious, and the texture is perfect, I say. Mama Fong smiles proudly, but also like a woman who had no doubt I was going to enjoy this food. She tells me she never intended to have a restaurant. She’s happy her son convinced her.

Tactile itself is a deeply personal business, too. The Yis, who both used to work in catering for Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, are Korean-Americans from Virginia. They serve blackstrap molasses syrup as a nod to their life in the South. Eric, who used to bake on Ludo Lefebvre’s LudoBites food truck, makes excellent buttermilk biscuits at Tactile. He can only bake about two dozen at a time because he’s using a portable Cadco convection oven.

“I’m familiar with this oven because we use it a lot in catering,” he says. “It’s an electric oven that doesn’t need a gas line, which we do not have in this space. It was just something that fit into the space, and we’re fortunate enough to find something that’s powerful enough that we can use daily. We also bake our house-made focaccia there.”

Tactile gets a little busy during my mid-afternoon visit. Eric is behind the counter alone while Mike sits and talks to me. Mike gets up immediately after we’re done chatting. “I’m going to go help,” he says.

L.A. is running out of neighborhoods that the national media can designate as “cool” and “authentic” and “the next big thing.” HiFi feels like a place that’s going to get so much attention in the near future.

Gordon, who opened Valerie Confections here in 2007, is thrilled that this has become a viable place for so many small, minority-owned, and female-owned businesses. But she, like everybody else here, knows that grittiness remains in an area where walking from one restaurant to another can mean strolling past industrial blocks with auto-repair shops, a swap meet, discount stores, and a driving school.

“It’s an area that’s a little bit weird, a little undefined, a little bit of a mishmash,” she says. “You’ve got the new, the old, the pretty, and the ugly in this area. … There’s been a lack of definition here. What’s starting to happen is definition, and that’s a really exciting thing.”

David Landsel

When Gordon, who is half-Chinese, first opened in the neighborhood, she jokingly called the area South Silver Lake. People have walked into Tactile, seen two Korean-American brothers behind the counter, and asked if this is Koreatown. Vaka Burger, which plans to open in the same building as Tactile later this year, is calling the area Echo Park. Others call it Rampart Village, which is associated with a huge police-corruption scandal. Yelp, multiple restaurants owners tell me, designates the area as Westlake.

Whatever you call it, the candid business owners here don’t shy away from talking about the area’s past. Chef Johneric Concordia, who makes Filipino-inspired barbecue at The Park’s Finest, has told other restaurateurs here about the history of gangs in the neighborhood and what the tags you still see here represent. Phan likes thinking about the legacy of the radicals and activists who were here. Mama Fong remembers hanging out here in the 1970s when a lot of foreign students lived in the area. She also recalls seeing many families in houses that are no longer here. This was three decades before the neighborhood became known as Historic Filipinotown.

Now, a lot of minority-owned businesses, which also include black-owned coffee shop  Bloom & Plume and underground Mexican-American barbecue Ragtop Fern’s, are redefining HiFi in their own very specific ways.

When guests ask Phan what kind of food she’s serving at Porridges + Puffs, she knows that they’re inquiring about her Vietnamese ethnicity. But she will reply by saying her food is Californian. If guests continue to press, she’ll say that her food is nothing like her mom’s Vietnamese food.

Phan wanted an all-female kitchen team with fine-dining experience. It took her eight months to get that staff, and now she’s working to keep her employees interested and excited. She might move away from porridge a bit, and she plans to add breakfast soon.